The raw milk trend in Wisconsin could possibly gain momentum from the designated Health and Human Services Secretary under President-elect Trump, despite the risk of disease outbreaks and a long history of substantiated public safety concerns. Unpasteurized milk, purportedly perceived as healthier by some than its pasteurized counterparts in supermarkets, has caught public attention due to Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s endorsement and the recall of the product from a Californian distributor after contamination with the H5N1 virus was identified. This association with bird flu has raised further concerns over the dairy industry in Wisconsin. Rebekah Sweeney, Senior Director of Policy and Programs at the Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association, urges lawmakers to reevaluate any plans for expanding the raw milk market nationally.
The consumption of raw milk entails the risk of ingesting bacteria and pathogens such as Campylobacter, Cryptosporidium, E. coli, Listeria, Brucella, and Salmonella. These can cause serious, and occasionally fatal, diseases. Symptoms for those infected can include gastrointestinal discomfort, but can escalate to Guillain-Barre syndrome, which can manifest in paralysis and hemolytic uremic syndrome, potentially resulting in kidney failure, stroke or death. Dangers are heightened for vulnerable populations such as children, elderly, those with compromised immune systems, and pregnant women.
Between 2009 and 2024, the dairy and medical sectors successfully lobbied to prevent the widespread sale of raw milk, to Wisconsin customers. The existing legislation allows for ‘incidental’ transactions involving a farmer and consumer. Essentially, sanitary inspectors should not find any evidence of raw milk sales during farm audits. Last year, a few state legislators put forward a bill to legalize advertisement and retail sale of raw milk, with only minimal testing and reporting required from dairy producers. However, this proposal failed to secure enough support for a vote.
Rebekah Sweeney described the legislation proposal as reckless, adding that it would place consumers at risk and could potentially weaken a staple industry for Wisconsin. There’s solid proof that the H5N1 virus can be transmitted through unpasteurized milk. Pasteurization, a technique to eradicate viruses and bacteria that was developed over a hundred years ago, has cemented dairy’s reputation for safety. Removing this process from the chain, according to Sweeney, opens up avoidable risks.
Despite its legal status, raw milk can be found in Wisconsin. Enthusiasts argue that it is richer in enzymes, probiotics, proteins, and vitamins than pasteurized milk. Proponents cite studies that suggest raw milk may help prevent chronic health conditions like asthma and allergies. Mark McAfee, founder and CEO of Raw Farm, a Californian raw milk supplier, said, ‘What we’re discussing is raw milk intended for humans. It’s tested for pathogens, has an extremely low bacterial count, and its success has been spectacular.’
Even as they consider it a legal reality, certain sellers have found lawful means to reach their consumers, such as through memberships and cooperatives. One such seller is Clay Pausma from Pausma Dairy in Fox Lake, who has mentioned that the farm is serious about providing high quality, safe raw milk and even conducts on-site testing. The state authorities insist that trivial fees paid for private milk club memberships do not suffice to permit sales.
The state Department of Agriculture stated, ‘A genuine financial interest is one where the shareholder invests more than a nominal amount and has a stake in the farm’s expenditures, profits, and losses. The owners must bear a portion of the duties and rights of holding a milk producer license. This licence should not be exploited merely to facilitate the procurement of non-pasteurized milk and/or milk products.’
Should Robert F. Kennedy Jr. be appointed as the Health and Human Services Secretary, the national raw milk movement may reap benefits. Pausma commented, ‘It’s not going to have negative effects. I’m quite conscious of government intervention as a whole, but it seems it’s not on his agenda.’
Between 2013 and 2018, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention received voluntary reports of 75 illness outbreaks linked to raw milk causing sickness in 2,645 people, leading to 228 hospitalizations and 3 deaths. During 2023 and 2024, over 100 cases of raw milk-induced Salmonella were reported from Raw Farm, leading to the hospitalization of at least seven people, with children constituting 40% of all cases.
Wisconsin itself has experienced outbreaks, notably a 2014 incident, where 38 people developed Campylobacter infections after consuming raw milk, with 10 requiring hospital care. This was one of the largest raw milk-associated outbreaks recorded by state officials. ‘The outbreak’s cause was ascertained through an epidemiologic study and validated through laboratory assessment, as raw milk served during a communal meal,’ stated the Wisconsin Department of Health Services.
In June 2011, raw milk served at a school event was linked to the illnesses of 16 attendees, primarily children. Two additional cases emerged shortly after. Lab tests confirmed that Campylobacter jejuni was the cause of these illnesses and discovered the bacteria was identical to that found in the raw milk supplied by the local farm involved. The supplying farms for both incidents were state-licensed to produce milk for business purposes, but did not have retail licenses according to state documents.
Even though less than 2% of all foodborne disease outbreaks are due to dairy, raw milk is responsible for over 70% of dairy-related outbreaks. ‘The scientific evidence and disease outbreak records, spanning over a century, underscore one fact: unpasteurized milk is not a safe commercial product,’ remarked Sweeney. She added, ‘It’s not a prudent product for a state like Wisconsin where dairy contributes $46 billion to the economy, sustains 157,000 jobs and pays $1.26 billion in taxes.’
Recently, in California, a case of bird flu was suspected in a child that showed symptoms of fever and vomiting after consuming raw milk. The child has since recovered, and no family members fell sick, indicating no human transmission. In the last few years, the number of states permitting raw milk sales has doubled, though most restrict sales to farm premises, a rising number allow retail sales. However, raw milk sales are miniscule compared to pasteurized milk.
Those Wisconsin farmers involved in the raw milk trade do so at their own risk, potentially crossing path with state regulators who act upon individual complaints and investigate when they spot raw milk sales during farm visits. Over the past four years, according to the state Department of Agriculture, a dozen farm inspections focusing on alleged raw milk sales have been conducted including six investigations, and three unspecified enforcement actions have occurred. The pivotal case of dairy farmer Vernon Hershberger in 2013, who was tried on four charges, drew nationwide attention and spotlighted the raw milk movement.