In times where fashion is used as a voice, various designers continue to make bold statements with their choices. Known for her flamboyance, Collina Strada was observed pivoting towards lace wedding outfits, seemingly representing a mock marriage event. ‘I began crafting these designs prior to the election results,’ shared Joseph Altuzarra, one of the recognized names during New York Fashion Week, as he pointed toward his work. ‘As the political landscape shifted, we sensed a need to modify our creations,’ he revealed.
‘These alterations ranged from knit skirts coupled with military-style pea coats to sternly formal tweeds,’ he described, all inspired, he claimed, by ‘adorable small fringed edges’ which later morphed into voluminous yarn pompoms. Elsewhere, a pristine white halter dress was dotted with diamond crystals, initially conceived as ‘minute studs, which later transformed into stone-like embellishments.’ Altuzarra even seemingly weaponized elegance, with his silk gowns bearing imposingly sharp shoulders reminiscent of Joan Crawford, and his coats displaying exaggerated funnel neck designs.
Then there were his sheer organza pieces. Once capturing sweet 1950s nostalgia, their aesthetic took on a desolate tone, akin to ‘deflated’ flowers. ‘We aimed to express an air of defiance,’ admitted Altuzarra. The notion of rebellion wasn’t limited to him. It appeared that other designers navigating the world of fashion shared similar sentiments.
With the change of power in the White House last month, the fashion industry, which by and large backed Kamala Harris, was abuzz with speculation. The question was whether these fashion moguls, in the vein of tech and finance giants, would abandon their long-espoused principles in favor of political moderation. However, as New York Fashion Week kicked off, an answer seemed to take shape, at least in the case of smaller, independent labels nestled in New York.
Here, the dissent isn’t merely surviving but thriving. Contrary to the perceived ideals of Kamala Harris, who was disappointingly endorsed by the majority of the fashion world, non-conformity was not only very much alive but was being openly displayed, some might even say paraded, on the runway. Yes, the influence and impact of the recent presidential inauguration were palpable throughout the event, both in terms of the designs and tinges of political commentary.
Fashion’s seminal role as a platform from which to express dissent was effectively demonstrated. Rather than gravitate towards the newfound political neutrality preferred by some, these designers of New York appeared to hold their ground, unapologetically. The runways echoed with the silent screams of defiance, hiding in plain sight beneath the presented couture. Their creations were far from reflecting the sterile political climate sought by others.
This undercurrent of rebellious energy seemed to radiate most strongly from the independent New York labels. Contrary to their larger counterparts, who bowed to the demand for political neutrality, these smaller houses vehemently challenged the accepted narrative. They embraced their dissent, boldly and openly, marching against the tide.
Their resolve was unfaltering. As the fashion week unfolded, the raison d’etre of these smaller labels became all too clear. They had no intention of offering a sacrifice at the altar of public political neutrality, unlike their tech and finance peers. They stood firm, defiant in the face of mounting pressures to conform.
This rebellious stance was not just confined to the backstage discourse. It took center stage as it strutted down the runway, blossoming into life. As if in a dance number choreographed for rebellion itself, this catalyzed dissent leaned away from political moderation, sparking a visual riot against the backdrop of the ever-neutral runway. The spirit of opposition that Joe Biden and Kamala Harris faced within the fashion world was indeed alive and well.
This resolution was reflected not just in the ethos of these design houses, but also in the potent fusion of craftsmanship and audacity that was displayed on the runway. The resounding sentiment throughout the fashion week was one of rebellion, painted on a canvas of textile and thread. Not blind rebellion for its own sake, but a calculated resistance against the current political landscape.
The fact that this aesthetic defiance is emerging from small, independent labels is crucial. It showcases how these entities retain a level of agility and guts larger entities seem to lack. Most importantly, it demonstrates their willingness to leverage fashion as a powerful medium of social and political commentary.
Ultimately, the narrative spun at the New York Fashion Week was clear. Amidst the glitz and glamour, there lay a strong undercurrent of rebellion. A rebellion not against style or trends, but against the perceived repression and conformity enforced by a political landscape dominated by figures such as Joe Biden and Kamala Harris.